Today is a good day, because I finally finished Upton Sinclair’s book, The Jungle. What a downer. It’s hard to listen to Johnny Mathis singing about the most wonderful time of the year, while reading about a character who’s situation just gets worse, and worse, and worse. Even when there’s a glimmer of hope in the plotline, by the next paragraph his wife has died, his child is drowned, he loses his job, loses his house, gets thrown in jail, and his iPod is stolen…oh wait, that last part was me. Boy do I miss it so…sniff...Today I get to buy a new book, so that’ll be exciting, I’m gonna try for something upbeat, maybe War and Peace.
Ahem, yes, well anyway, I’ve come to the conclusion that while Rome is the Eternal City and there are many fabulous things about it, I’m just not in love with it like others tend to be. I think I would love living in another part of Italy, and hope to be lucky enough to do so some day, but I’ve had my fill of Rome for the time being. Granted, there’s nothing quite like walking the streets the Romans walked during the Empire as you near the Colosseum, drinking in the beauty of the Sistine Chapel, or sitting in a Piazza gazing at a gorgeous fountain, but once you get through the touristy aspects of the city, you get into the nitty gritty, and Rome is just not that nice a place.
For example, fresh air. This is common with all major cities, and I’m willing to concede that, but seeing as this is the first one that I’ve actually lived in, I’m disgusted by the fact that I can’t get a breath of fresh air to save my life. The exhaust from mopeds, the puddles of urine near the train station, the damp, stale air of the metro, the bittersweet smell of starling bird crap—it’s all awful.
In terms of people, the Italians themselves are great. All of my students are extremely nice and interesting, and for every Italian home I’ve been welcomed in to, I’ve absolutely loved it and the culture that came with it. However, there are a lot of non-Italians in this city, and I’ve come to loathe a certain percentage of them. It is impossible, absolutely impossible, to go anywhere without someone trying to con you for money. The other day I was buying a metro ticket from an automatic machine, and one of the gypsies was standing there, pegged that I was a foreigner, and said, “English?” as if she were going to help me. I replied, “No, and I can do this myself,” in Italian, and she jumped into a plea for money, shaking her cup at me, and going on and on about her poverty while I waited for my ticket to be discharged from the machine. I know this sounds horrible, but ticket machines are not that hard to figure out, so why should I give her money for something I’m perfectly capable of doing myself? Then there are the mothers who just sit with their children on the street with signs saying, “We’re hungry, help us please!” How can they do that? How can they not try to do something different to better their situations? How can you take children and make them sit on the street to beg with you? Or beg for money on the metro? What does this child think in the morning when he/she wakes up and says, “Yep, time to get my Pringles can and go hit up rich looking people on the train for money”? It disgusts me, and instead of wanting to give them money, I want to give the parent a firm smack in the face, for putting their child through this. The tourist attractions above are all beautiful, but not when you have people constantly hounding you to buy a stupid toy that makes the most irritating sound in the world, or tell you that they’re giving you a rose for free, as a gift, and then hit you up for a donation for the flowers. I often steal internet at a McDonald’s in the main train station, and see herds of families come through, sifting through left behind trays, handing their kids remnants of Big Macs and the last few fries in the fry box. When walking through high traffic areas, they’re all set up with rip-off sunglasses, bags and belts, and if you even mistakenly glance in their direction, they’re upon you like a pack of wolves. “You like? You like? I have three different colors. For you, today only, for you, 15 euros.” And they’ll follow you down the street just a few steps, knowing that their fellow vendors will protect their merchandise while they try to annoy you enough into buying something so that they’ll just shut-up and leave you alone—but then that would be giving in, so I firmly set my jaw, stare dead ahead, and enjoy the fact that I’m tall enough that this person is jumping up to try to get into my line of vision…go Houston height. And that’s another thing…what kind of a cat-call is it to tell someone who’s 5’11, “You’re tall” while she’s walking down the street??? —I’m tall? Really? Gosh, I never realized that before, thanks greasy stranger on the side of the street, I thought that my pants were never long enough because I mistook ‘extra-long’ to mean ‘capri’, but now I understand, I’m actually tall, well, how do you like that? Thanks for the newsflash, Captain Obvious.
I have a new appreciation for street performance, which is illegal here. I remember being in France, and outside of the Pompidou museum, my friend and I watched one of the coolest street performers ever and I remember throwing a euro fifty his way, because he put in the effort to learn amazing balancing feats, juggling acts and acrobatics while working the crowd, and I give him credit for that. I don’t give credit for people who just sit, thinking if they look sad enough they can get a dime…I sound cold-hearted, I know, and think what you may, but you get sick of this after a while, and I personally didn’t put them where they are. I am willing to help those who try, but not others.
So yeah, it’s just like my friend Kristin told me this summer, “You’re going to go away, and see some things that are just not nice things, and they’ll make you understand how special your home and where you come from are.” Ain’t that the truth? 16 more days and that breath of fresh air will be mine…yessssss….